Author: italian-footwear

In order to categorize a shoe, we must look at the upper, the heel and its functionality.
The Derby shoe can be identified by the fact that it has the quarter (also called the back part), is stitched on the vamp(also called the front part), usually over, with stitching ending in the part of the shoe that contains the eyelets, known as “the facing” with a special lock stitch. The advantage of this type of construction is in the fact that the facing is free to open and close, just like flaps, giving the wearer a great deal of comfort in the instep area. It is understood that the vamp area of the Derby shoe can have various designs and shapes but they all have in common the comfort opening of the facing. The simple fact that the facing is open (also said open lacing), makes this type of shoe a more Casual shoe. We can have a Men’s Derby, a Women’s Derby and a Children’s Derby.
The Oxford shoe is the opposite of the Derby and so, it is the front part (the vamp) which is stitched on the quarters and so blocking the facings from opening freely at the bottom, making a V shape opening from top to bottom. The Oxford for this reason is a much more classic formal type of shoe and not as comfortable to wear as a Derby shoe. The Oxford also comes in various designs and shapes but all have in common the fact that they all open from the top center facing and locked at the bottom with a vamp stitching giving a narrow V shape opening. Like the Derby, the Oxford can be made for Men, Women and Children.
In both cases, Derby or Oxford, they come in various models and shapes. A general rule of the thumb is that the Derby is casual and the Oxford is formal but that does not stop the creativity of the designers to make a oxford shoe on a sneaker design giving it a very sporty look or make a classical derby. The limit to its styles depends only on the imagination of the designers.

FUNCTION: The Derby shoe is a very comfortable and functional shoe. It is usually a casual shoe but if needed can also become a formal shoe with slight modifications in the design. We strongly suggest using this kind of shoe for the corporate use where staff need to stand up or walk for long distance. It also is a perfect shoe for fight attendant due to the fact that during long flights and sitting for long period, the foot usually swells and so you can easily relieve the pressure by loosening the shoe laces. On the contrary, the Oxford shoe has a fixed opening and so by loosening the shoe lace will not make any difference since the opening is fixed by the vamp covering the quarter. In case a more formal shoe is required in the corporate use, we could suggest to make a formal derby shoe having the look of a classic shoe but the comfort of a derby shoe. It is important to know that for each type of shoe to get a perfect fit, you will need to modify the last orelse you won’t be able to get the maximim comfort deserved and much appreciated.

Italian Footwear Solution always discuss with our customers to understand perfectly their needs since the foot should not adapt to the shoe but it is the right shoe which needs to adapt to the function it will endure. After receiving the correct information, we will suggest which shoe will better fulfill the needs and ensure the size/width are in accordance to the customers’ needs and requirements. One shoe fits all approach does not work and we understand that the most important thing is to listen to our customers, then fulfill their requirements and working together with best Italian technicians and materials to offer a beautiful esthetic shoe having in addition a perfect most comfortable fit.

In order to categorize a shoe, we must look at the upper, the heel and its functionality.
Let’s start with one of the most complicated shoes to manufacture which is the Pump, Decolletee Scollata. This shoe covers only the toes, keeping the instep uncovered. It covers asymmetrically the flanks sides of the foot, in order to container properly the foot and also covers the heels. It must be very well constructed so it does not slip off the foot. A classic throat cut is when the outer and inner side are straight with a round curve around the throat. A good pump construction will have the throat covering right above the toe lines. Too high will pain and too low will make the shoe slip off. Another important factor of good constructions is the inclination of the back profile. The higher the heel, the more the inclination because the middle of the back profile must aim towards the front throat of the shoe so helping to hold the foot better. If the pump has a front opening slightly exposing the toes, it is called a peep toe. Taking into consideration that in a peep toe shoe the foot needs to move to expose the front toes, the last must be adapted to this and so it will also be from ½ to one full size smaller than a normal classic pump. There will be different designs of pumps or peep toe and we must consider that in each case, we always need to consider the comfort of the walk and not only the look while constructing the shoe. The pump could also have a plateau which obviously increases the weight of the shoe and so in order to ensure a good fit, comfort and walk, the designer needs to adapt the design accordingly.

The ballerina is a type of shoe inspired by the classical ballet shoes. It is very similar to the pump having a short vamp with a throat opening, asymmetric sides and counter. In order to hold the foot better, a elastic band inserted between the upper and the lining can be added. One important technical detail to note is that the vamp and the sides have the function to hold the foot during walk so if the vamp is shorter, then the sides should be hither and vice versa, if the sides are lower then the vamp should be longer.
Another type of peep toe is the asymmetrical peeps toe where the inner flank has no side. This makes it very difficult to hold the foot in place. This can be obtained by designing the inner side of the throat and the inner side of the counter higher than normal giving more grip.

The T-Strap or Carlo IX which has an extension of the vamp in the middle which crosses with the ankle strap which is blocked by a buckle, holding the instep into place while leaving the lateral side of the foot uncovered. If the T-Strap shoe has a back opening, then it is also considered a T-Strap sandal.
The Mary Jane is a pump having a instep strap in the middle. A variation of the Mary Jane would be the DÓrsay which is a pump with no sides, but having straps starting above the vamp, crossing in the instep position and finishing in the counter with a buckle.


We can conclude that the shoe must hold into place so if the counter is reduced, then there must be straps to counter this. On the other hand, if the counter and vamp are prominent, then the foot can be contained in the shoe without the support of the straps.

The Chanel ( sling back shoe ) is a peep toe with a back strap replacing the counter and secured by a buckle or elastic, ensuring a perfect fit.
Lastly we have the ankle strap shoe which is a D’Orsay with additional ankle strap to secure the foot in the shoe. It is important for the perfect fit and feel of this type of shoe that the straps go above the ankle or else it will disturb the wearer.


FUNCTION: The Pump is a very elegant shoe designed in many various ways. The designer plays with the counter, the straps, side flanks and vamp. All these shoe parts function like the gears of a watch which are all inter-connected and dependent on each other for the good function, comfort and fit of the shoe. The designer together with the last technician must work together to ensure the walk and fit are perfect with every step.


Italian Footwear Solution will work with best technicians available ensuring the proportions of each part of the shoe not only give a beautiful esthetic look, but also have a perfect most comfortable fit.

As we explained in our previous lesson, there are various ways to construct a shoe. The type of shoe constructions we will use will depend on the type of shoe we want to construct, the comfort, and the ability of the shoe maker. There are some simpler ones like the cemented constructions and the more complicated and time consuming ones like the goodyear welt construction. The price of the shoe will depend on the quality of the materials used the time it will take to make the shoe and the level of skill of the technician.
We can classify three major types of shoe constructions which depends on how the upper is attached to the outsole; Cemented, Stitched and Injected/vulcanized.
Lets’ start with the easiest one which is the Cemented construction. As the word says, the upper and lining will be pulled around the last and glued or cemented to the bottom part of the insole. Afterwards, the outsole will be glued to the bottom part closing the shoe. A special glue is used which gets activated with heat so both outsole and lasted upper are placed in a special heated oven to activate the glue and then united together. In some cases, small nails can be added to reinforce the bonding mainly with leather shoes. A press will also help in bonding these two parts forming the shoe.

Second type of construction is where the outsole will be first glued as explained above, then stitched to the upper, lining and insole with a vertical stitch from the exterior to the interior of the shoe. This construction is called the Blake Mackay construction or simply Blake stitching. This will give a added value to the shoe since it will be almost indestructible so long lasting. Some shoes will have a fake sole stitching and so to identify a real blake construction, you can look inside the shoe or in case of a moccasin by bending the outsole or upper. In order to construct a shoe with blake stitching, you will need a patented sewing machine with a double threaded strong needle called Blake sewing machine.
Another type of stich construction would be the Stitched-out construction also called Ideal construction. In this type of constructions, the upper and lining will cover the last but will not turn under the insole and stop on the outer upper side of the insole. The stitching will be vertical as well in two different types. One way is to stitch the upper and lining to the insole, then gluing everything to the outer sole. A second type is the stitching will perforate also the outsole making it much more durable. This type of construction also called flexible construction makes a very casual and comfortable shoe by adapting to the owner’s foot.


A more advanced stitched out construction is called San Crispino where the upper and lining will be stitched as a stitched-out then go under the insole and stitched as well. This vertical stitch will catch the upper at the top edge position, go through the insole and finish at the bottom part of the insole. Once this operation is completed, the outsole then can now be glued. For additional solidity, the outsole can also be stitched to this construction.

Opanka construction is also part of the stitched construction. The sole used for this type of construction is often called a cup sole because of its shape like a cup. The upper and lining will be assembled to the insole just like the cemented construction, then this cup outsole will be wrapped at the bottom and side part, then glued and additionally be stitched horizontally to the upper. This is a more expensive construction so again this stitching could be fake and to see if it is really a opanka construction, we need to see the inside of the shoe. A more expensive version of the opanka construction is when the outsole is made of leather because the leather is more expensive and the sole manufacturer will need special machines to bend the leather in a cup shape.

Finally, we have the Goodyear construction also said the welted construction. This is a very expensive construction because mostly done by very skillful craftsmen by hand. The insole is not flat but has a T section like a lip, so when the upper and lining will curve under the insole and stop on this lip. On the other side of the upper, we have the welt. The stitching will go from the insole lip through the upper and through the welt. The outsole can then be lightly glued to the welt, which will then be stitched just like a blake construction. It is the welt stitched to the outsole which holds it in place. This construction is very elaborated and uses almost no glue so at the beginning the shoe will be heavy and stiff but then will adapt to the wearer and be one of the most durable and comfortable shoes. Because this special insole has lips to allow the stitching of the insole to upper and welt, the middle part will be empty so we will need to fill it with cork past which will harden but still be bouncy like cork.

In all these types of stitching construction there is a channel on the outsole which acts as a guide.


The third family the outsole is made of rubber either natural or synthetic. We have the vulcanize construction and the injection construction. Many sneakers will have this type of construction. In the vulcanized, the outsole is constructed around the shoe by gluing these parts to the upper then inserted in a autoclave where high pressure and hi heat will fuse them together as one piece. Another type of vulcanization is what is often used for safety shoes where the outsole and all its components are placed inside a heated mold, then the upper with heated metal last is pressed on it. The heat for several minutes will bond them together by vulcanizing them together.


The direct injection on the upper construction will insert the upper which is usually constructed as above in a Strobel sock, into melted material. This way we are making the outsole by injecting the compound directly around the upper. We have safety shoes, sport shoes and other type of formal light weight shoes.


FUNCTION: Depending on the type of construction we can obtain various durability, comfort, and functional shoes. As we already said in many occasions, the construction of the shoe will depend on the good quality of all its materials and manufacturers making those materials.


Italian Footwear Solution will utilize all type of construction depending on the final function a particular shoe. We will also ensure to work with manufacturers who are specialized in a particular type of construction. The Comfort and Perfect Fit is our main objective, so each type of shoe will have the best construction to perform that comfort feel.

There are various ways to construct a shoe and each one is good for the finality of the shoe. The more complicated the more costly because of labor involved. The easiest one is the so called Cemented construction. The cemented construction is the easiest and fastest way to make a shoe. This is industrialized and you can pull (also said last) the upper around the last and fix to the bottom insole. The leather will not cover entirely the bottom insole (in order to save material and cost) so leaving a gab in the middle. In order to make it flush, we will fill this gab with a filler made of past of leather or cork or other material.


The insole in most cases, is made out of carboard. The forepart of the insole is flexible so to flex during natural walk while the back part is rigid giving stability to the shoe. In order to increase this rigidity and stability, especially with lady shoe which has a heel, an additional reinforcement will be there in the back part middle called shank. This shank is made of metal or fiberglass (tpu or nylon). A perfectly made insole will follow the bottom curvature of the last adhering perfectly to it. Very few specialized insole manufacturers will make a customized insole for one particular last and make it with the upmost precision. We need to remember that the insole is the core and main skeleton of a shoe giving it a perfect balance with all other materials. Since the upper material, including the insole, the toe box and back counter must all fit into the outsole, it is natural to understand that the outsole must be wider of a few mml in order to make all these components fit perfectly inside. In order to make a perfect insole which will fit perfectly to our particular last, the insole manufacturer will have to make one metal die for each different last. Because this is very costly, many footwear suppliers use preexisting insoles which causes the foot to suffer severe pain.
We can also have an insole with a platform which will then be covered by the upper and bottom covered by the outsole. In the case of a sandals with straps, a perfectly made insole for sandal will have incisions to allow the straps to be fitted perfectly inside and so to avoid bumps and deformity.
During the manufacturing process, we need to fix the insole to the last and this can be done with nails, staples or adhesive tape. In all these cases, they must be removed before the outsole is assembled. Once removed, the bottom part can then be sanded and smoothened in order to get a very good adhesive with the outsole. This will ensure that the attachment to the outsole with glue will be as perfect and strong as possible.

An insole with heel will have a dent in the back part called heel seat to allow the heel to fit perfectly in this position. It is important to know that also the heel must be perfectly calculated and this is done by another manufacturer specialized In heels. By placing the finished shoe without heel on a special heel calculating machine, the technician will be able to develop the perfect heel to fit perfectly to this structure. It will calculate the heel height according to the toe spring and other measurements.
We can now classify different type of heels; we have the so called breasted heel which has the tail in the back covering the front part of the heel. We can also have the attached heel. In this case the outsole can stop where the heel begins or the insole will be slimmed down to fit under the heel. We can also find a prefabricated outsole with heel included. Here there is no attachment since they are one piece all together.

FUNCTION: As we already said in many occasions, the construction of the shoe will depend on the good quality of all its materials and manufacturers making those materials. Each component is an essential part of the puzzle to manufacture a good shoe. If any of the components are of poor quality, the result will not only be visible but even worse, very painful during the entire walk for the entire life of the shoe. Good materials come from specialized material manufacturers like heels, insoles, counters, toe puffs, leathers and so on. These materials have been perfectioned in time using old tradition by passionate craftsmen. A good sole for example should be lightweight and flexible making the user feel almost as if, they are not wearing a shoe and should follow the natural movement of the foot during walk. The upper materials used should be of highest quality, soft and anti-allergic to embrace the foot without any compression in any point with function of following the foot during walk. The fit of the shoe must be the most important calculations the designer should focus on during the creation. The correct measurements of the foot circumferences and length, will allow the designer to manufacture any style of shoe having a very comfortable fit. These calculations take into consideration the walking movement, the standing position and also the sitting position which are obviously different due to the pressure our body exercises on the foot.

Italian Footwear Solution with 3 generation of footwear manufacturing experience, we will take all the above factors into consideration while designing and manufacturing a shoe. We will also ensure to work only with the best material producers which has the same passion as us. The Comfort and Perfect Fit is our main objective, so before any design is created, we will ensure the basic designs and materials fit these criteria’s, ensuring comfort of our customer during each step pampering their delicate feet all day long. As we always say… “ Happy Feet = Happy People “.

Often, we struggle with various numbers printed on our shoes increasing our confusion on what is our actual shoe size or should we say, our real foot size. It is not the shoe who determines our size but our foot. If we realize that our two feet have also different measurements, it will become even more confusing. Let us try to put some clarify into this very confusing subject for everyone.

First of all, let us be clear that there are only two principal ways to measure our size and this is in CM or Inches. This means that in any part of the world, you will get the exact same measurements from anyone’s feet. The problem lies in the way we then interpret these measurements into shoe size which depends on the geographical area.

Let us start by identifying the most popular shoe sizes we can find in the market; a) French size (also called European size), b) UK size, and c) US size. When the brand exhibits his shoes at a shoe exhibition, they will only display the base size, which is 42 for men and 37 for lady. The reason for this is that the cost of developing all the sizes is very high so manufacturers will only make one size (called the base size) to start. If this new style gets enough orders necessary to amortize the entire size range investment, then after the show, they will invest in all the sizes (usually 40-46 for male and 36-41 for lady). Few suppliers will go further in developing width girth like Normal fit, Wide fit and X-Wide fit. Some very fewer suppliers will also extend their range adding ½ sizes in their range. By including different width girth and half sizes, you can be sure that you will satisfy mostly all types of feet. When we change the last size, we talk about scaling, while when we talk about width, we talk about grading usually calculated by the instep girth.


The US system will have a last difference of width girth of 6.35mm equivalent to ¼ Inch while in the European (French) system the difference will be of 4.5mm. As we already said, we also need to measure the length which is measured from the heel point to the center of the toe giving us a measurement in cm/mm. The French system will calculate the Paris (or French point) which equals to 6.66 mm = 2/3 cm which is little longer than half a cm. The English system (English point) is 8.46mm = 1/3 inch since one inch = 25.4mm. So, the difference between size 8 and size 9 = 8.46mm. The American system also has a difference of 8.46mm between a size 4 and 6. There are also other systems like the Russian, the Japanese, the Mexican, and Korean. In order to find a table with conversions, you can visit our website at: https://www.italianfootwearsolution.com/size-guide/.

The fitting girth or width of the last in the UK system is classified by C, F & G while the French system uses numbers and so F which is central or normal fit is the 6th letter of the alphabet called 6 and C = 4 and G = 7.

In the American system we will have 1 width in normal fit called M (medium = 6), Narrow = S or SS or SSS and Wide E or EE or EEE. Since this would create even more confusion to the public, the American system will only display on their shoe box; N = Narrow, M Medium & W = Wide.

French widths: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
English widths: A B C D E F G H J K
American widths AAAA AAA AA A B C D E EE

Different ½ sizes with option of various width is to give a better option to the customers.

FUNCTION: In order to get a comfortable fit when wearing a shoe, it is important to take into consideration different factors which play a very important role. The sole should be very lightweight and flexible making the user feel almost as if, they are not wearing a shoe and the natural movement of the foot during walk is harmonic. The materials used should be of highest quality and soft to embrace the foot without any compression in any point but just following the foot during walk. The fit of the shoe must be the most important calculations the designer should focus on during the creation. The correct measurements of the foot circumferences and length, will allow the designer to manufacture any style of shoe having a very comfortable fit. These calculations take into consideration the walking movement, the standing position and also the sitting position which are obviously different due to the pressure our body exercises on the foot.


Italian Footwear Solution will take all the above factors into consideration while designing and manufacturing a shoe before any design is created since the Comfort and the Perfect Fit are our main objectives when designing a shoe. Once the perfect fit measurements are reached for our particular style we wish to create, we can then create our fashion around this base design. With the design in mind, we need to use our traditional experience in purchasing the most soft and flexible materials which will ensure comfort the feet of our customers during each step pampering their delicate feet all day long. As we always say… “ Happy Feet = Happy People “.

In our previous lessons, we spoke about how the last will change the comfort of a shoe depending on its length, width and volume. One of the important measurements which will affect the good comfort of our shoes is the length of the “toe allowance” which is the space inside a shoe in front of our longest toe. This space will allow our foot to move forward during normal walk. It is usually 1cm but will vary depending on the shoe size. In our previous lessons we also made the distinction between Roman(square), Egyptian(round and our reference, and Greek(Pointy) foot but there is also have the Flat Foot(almost no Arch and minimum Instep Girth, Curved Foot(exaggerated Arch with exaggerated Instep Girth also called the Claw Foot) and the Average Foot(Normal Arch with normal Instep Girth). In order to make a good shoe we will need the following measurements considerations.

Let’s start with the “Toe Spring” which is the height measured from the tip of the last (Toe Point) to the ground (approx. of one finger from the ground). 1) The toe spring will allow the foot to bow for a comfortable and normal movement during walk or run. 2) The fitting girth (girth = volume), also called the ball girth, is measured by the circumference of the widest point of the fore part of the human foot, also called the two ball points. This line will pass around the 1st and the 5th metatarsal bone. 3) The instep girth measured by the circumference of the maximum volume around the waste (the shank) and the instep of the last or the top of the last’s cone. 4) Heel girth measured the circumference of the heel feather edge, across the cuboid, to the point where the instep girth crosses the main axis. In other words, from the heel to the cone. 5) Heel height measured by the height of the heel edge feather to the ground once the toe spring is in the correct position and height. 6) The length which is calculated from the heel to the longest toe.

Once we have all the correct measurements, we can then design a shoe with a square/round/pointy toe shape, or any shape our wildest designing fantasies create since if the volume is correctly calculated, the foot will fit perfectly into a comfortable shoe.

FUNCTION: The correct measurements of the foot circumferences and length, will allow the designer to manufacture any style of shoe having a very comfortable fit. These calculations take into consideration the walking movement, the standing position and also the sitting position which are obviously different due to the pressure our body presses on the foot.
Italian Footwear Solution will take all these measurements into consideration before any design is created since the Comfort and the Perfect Fit are our main objectives when designing a shoe. Once the perfect fit measurements are reached for our particular style we wish to create, we can move our designs around them if needed. All of our shoes will always have our Perfect Fit Calculations to ensure our customers enjoys wearing our shoes for hours to come by pampering their delicate feet all day long.

In our previous lesson, amongst many things, we spoke about the length and width (instep girth) as main measurements to get a perfect fit. In this lesson we will study the importance of the technical aspect of the foot inside a shoe and how it will affect its comfort.

The big Toe is the 1st Metatarsal bone all the way to the 5th little toe. The difference ball girth between a bare foot and the girth of the foot wearing a comfort shoe is approximately 1cm. Between a comfort shoe and a tight shoe is also approximately 1cm. In case we want to modify the shoe style it is important not to modify the area occupied by the bones so we will need to give more volume in the Instep girth and bone girth.

One more consideration is to give at least 5-6mm space between the shoe and the foot in order to be considered a Perfect shoe fit. The contrary is will also be a problem when there is too much space and the foot moves too much inside the shoe. The space in front can also hurt if too short so a good measurement is essential when choosing a shoe size.

In general, we can say there are 3 types of feet; the Roman foot(Square), the Egyptian foot(almost average perfect) and the Greek foot(Index longer). In order to have a good fit, we develop last according to the Egyptian foot since this is the average. We also need to consider the width of Male and Female which are also very different and for this reason, we cannot scale a shoe size 38 for Male for a Female and viceversa. This is mainly because the heel and the ball girth are slimmer in female.

When a lady wears a high heel, the foot bends towards the front increasing the instep girth. The contrary will happen if a flat shoe is worn.

Another variable to consider is that feet may have a longer fore foot or a shorter fore foot. A foot which fits perfectly in the shoe will have a foot Arch which fits perfectly in the Waste of the shoe curvature and ball point also will be same as the last developed. If these measurements are correctly done, the toes will have space and can relax inside the shoe. This will be a good comfortable shoe.

Another challenge is the heel part which can be wider or slimmer. The higher the heel the more pressure on the metatarsus and so it is important for a comfort shoe to have a padding right in the joint of the Ball Point Girth footbed.


FUNCTION: The Last Measurements are done with very accurate calculations by professionals in order to make a good and comfortable last. This last needs to consider the anatomical measurements of the average foot and if necessary, add a narrow or Wider last.

Italian Footwear Solution will take all these measurements into consideration ensuring that the foot fits properly into the shoe with a correct arch and instep curve adapting to the inclination during walk. Our shoes will have extra padding on the ball point line, footbed, heel and counter to reduce fatigue and back pain so that the foot not only sits perfectly into the shoe but is pampered by the extra high quality memory foam used. We guarantee long-lasting comfort and high performance in all our shoes. All our shoes have a fashionable look with anti-skid, anti-static, and made from pure leather for maximum comfort and thermal protection.

In order for a shoe manufacturer to make a shoe with a perfect fit, it is very important that he utilizes a last having perfect measurements which in return, giving the shoe a perfect fit. In order to get a perfect fitting last, we need to find the exact balance between fashion and comfort. The way to obtain this is by making the perfect comfort last measurement, fit into a fashion trendy shoe. This is easier said than done since fashion designers look at the esthetic look only, while penalizing the comfort. For this reason, the fit of two different brands will most probably fit differently giving the user a different feel in comfort and fit. It is a good idea to have the measurements of your feet and then compare them to the chart usually printed on the brands shoe box. A good designer will always start with a good measured last and then work his design around this. In this lesson, we will teach you the basic of measuring a last in order to understand if it is well manufactured or needs changes before using it into production. These changes can be done by you or just by sending the new desired measurements to the last manufacture who will make them for you. It is important to keep in mind that a Court shoe will have different measurements than a ballerina or a hiking shoe, since each type of different styles will have different requirements.


There are two main measurements which need to be considered. The length of the foot and the width of the instep girth. The length of the foot will determine the shoe size while the instep girth (Girth meaning Volume) will determine if we need a Normal, Wide or X-Wide fit. The length of a foot is a 2D measurement and can be done by placing the foot on a piece of paper on a flat surface and placing the heel against a wall. The measurement will be taken from the wall to the longest toe. This will give your shoe size in number by comparing your measurement to a foot size table (also available on our website www.ifsdubai.com). The Girth or Volume is a 3D measurement and will determine the volume of the foot in the widest instep area. Measuring the foot in this area is also called the Instep girth. This is a very important measurement since not all feet are the same and if not taken into consideration it could create lots of problems during fit. You should always take the bigger measurement of both feet as reference. A person with higher instep, could take a bigger size shoe to feel more comfortable, while all that was really needed was a wider shoe. Other important measurements are the Ball Girth which is measured around the foot (this is the widest part of the foot) where the two prominent bones on the side of the foot are felt representing the small bones (Tarsals) connected to the metatarsal bones. The medial ball point will connect to the lateral ball point passing by the Vamp Point in the middle of the Last. Half way between the Instep Girth and Ball Girth-Joint Girth is the Waist Girth measurement.


The front part of the ball joint is also called the FORE PART and the back of the ball joint is called the BACK PART.

With the help of these measurements and others, we are able to create the Perfect Fit Shoe Last which represents the heart of shoe design (shoe pattern) and shoe fit by reflecting the anatomical shape of our foot. If you have a good shoe last and make a perfect pattern design from it, you can be sure a great shoe will be made. A comfort Fit must be calculated each time a last is developed and is essential in producing shoes which will have the PERFECT FIT.
FUNCTION: The Last Measurements are done with very accurate calculations by professionals in order to make a good and comfortable last. We are able to test this last and if needed bring more modifications to it until we reach the desired perfection.


Italian Footwear Solution will ensure to only work together with the best last manufacturers and technicians so together with testing and modifications can obtain the Perfect Fit in every shoe we produce for all our satisfied customers wearing our brands.

In order for a shoe manufacturer to cut the material for the making of the shoe upper, we need to first make a shoe pattern design which allows them to produce the cutting knifes which will be utilized with a specialized press to cute out the exact shape of the upper pieces. The cutting of the shoe upper materials can also be done by hand.

The shoe Designer will first choose the specific last made for that particular shoe we need to produce and wrap half of the outer side of the last with masking tape. Some shoe designers prefer to wrap the entire last but this is only a choice of speed in execution. Once the last is wrapped with masking tape, it is important to ensure to remove the wrinkles by pressing a pen or the handle side of the cutting knife on the masking tape and try to flatten it as much as possible. It will be difficult to get your masking tape perfectly curved around the heel and instep so you can make small cuts in the masking tape in these areas which will help around the curves. You must now draw a line on the masking tape in the middle and all around the edges of the last. This designer will first cut the excess masking tape around the edges removing the excess tape. A metal rasp can also help during this process. Once the excess masking tape is removed around all edges, you can now cut the tape following the middle line. At this point, the first shoe pattern design is done which will reflect the same design as our specific last but in 2D instead of 3D. We can now remove the masking tape from the last and place the sticky side on a flexible thin cardboard. You can now draw your pattern around the masking tape design onto the cardboard remembering to leave extra allowance space around the heel profile of 22mm, the opposite side of the instep 18mm and the toe area 10mm. This will serve to give extra material at the bottom side in order to wrap around the assembling insole during the mounting process.

Now you can cute out the new shoe last pattern out of the cardboard and you have your first shoe pattern. You can now make a test by placing it on top of a normal paper and cut out the design. You will have made from this paper a right and left side of the last. We now need to tape them together in order to create the complete upper. You can unite both sides with the help of masking tape leaving the top and bottom completely opened from which the last will be inserted. This will create a trial copy of your final upper. You will need to wrinkle the paper at this point in order to make it more flexible and manageable during the trials on the existing last. This paper upper will be stretched around the last to study any imperfections and it is during this process that any fine adjustments can be marked on the paper pattern. This is the final phase which is very important to make any adjustments to ensure we have taken all the correct measurements and that the upper will fit perfectly on our last. Once we have adjusted the paper pattern and are confident that the paper fits exactly, we can draw around the bottom edge with a pencil a line to identify the edges once we flatten the paper on the cardboard. We will then cute off the modifications added and flatten the paper pattern on a new cardboard and redraw the corrected pattern. We can now add small cuts with our knife above the drawing edge line we made previously to indicate the limit of the lining of the upper since the lining will be shorter.

You have finally completed your Shoe Design Pattern and can give it the same code number/name of your last.

The SHOE LAST is the heart of shoe design (shoe pattern) and shoe fit by reflecting the anatomical shape of our foot. If you have a good shoe last and make a perfect pattern design from it, you can be sure a great shoe will be made. A comfort Fit must be calculated each time a last is developed and is essential in producing shoes which will have the PERFECT FIT.

FUNCTION: The Shoe Pattern Design will be our guide to cut out the upper and lining. A good well-made shoe pattern design is the heart of the shoe fit and look. It will allow us to facilitate and speed the cutting of the upper materials while reducing waste.

Italian Footwear Solution will ensure the calculations and measurements of the shoe pattern designs always follows the Perfect Fit Rule remembering to get a fantastic shoe design giving the fashion element in a Comfortable and technically well-made shoe.

1) Shoe Last & Perfect Fit;

The SHOE LAST is the heart of shoe design (shoe pattern) and shoe fit by reflecting the anatomical shape of our foot. It is a Designing Tool to work on directly. They are usually made from plastic material (most common ones), wood(usually hard maple) and aluminum(for high temperature reasons). The second important feature of the shoe last, is that it is used as a manufacturing tool during the production of our shoes. A comfort Fit must be calculated each time a last is developed and is essential in producing shoes which will have a PERFECT FIT.

There are many important parameters to be calculated on a shoe last with the help of a measuring tape. The two major ones are: 1) Size of a shoe which is measured by taking the length of the bottom side of the last from the edge of the heel till the edge of the toe. 2) The width of the shoe last is done by taking the maximum volume of the Instep Girth. (Most popular width are Narrow Fit, Normal Fit, Wide Fit and Extra Wide Fit. A particular shoe, sandal or boot will have its specific shoe last made for a particular shoe style. The shoe last will have a specific toe shape, specific volume and height which will identify the shoe we need to construct. The heel profile and inclination and heel height will be specific to a unique type of shoe. Some shoe last will have a steel plate at the bottom of the last and this is to avoid the nails, during the attachment of the upper to the assembly insole to perforate the shoe last. Most footwear lasts will have different type of openings like hinges or detachable pieces to facilitate the de-lasting of the shoe at the end of the production process.

A good shoe last should always consider not only a Perfect Fit but also a good Stability during walk. A well-constructed pump for example will sit tightly on your feet without any fastening and will have a narrower last having no other way to adhere to the foot than the quarters, the counter and the toe box, while leaving the instep completely free. It is for this reason that it must be perfectly constructed and will always be longer than your feet length with toe allowance to hold the foot in place while leaving the foot space to move inside the shoe. The Pump also called Court shoe is the one of the most difficult shoe to construct for these reasons.

The Sandals is a opposite example having an open construction, where we have straps holding the shoe in place. Sandal lasts have dimensions which are very close to the dimension of the feet with a bigger instep than the pump of at least 8mm.

One last important note is to understand that each country is working with one of the most common shoe sizes calculation which are; French size, UK size, USA size and Japan size. This means to get your perfect fit and perfect size; you will first need to know the length of your foot in cm from the back heel to the longest toe (usually the big toe). Bring this measurement on a specialized footwear chart (you can download from our https://www.italianfootwearsolution.com/size-guide/ ) to get your correct size per country system marked on the shoe.

FUNCTION: The last is utilized firstly in the designing process by wrapping it with masking tape and then, designing the style of shoe directly on the tape. This masking tape pattern which reflects the shape of the shoe last, will then be transferred to a harder carboard with designs to be used for cutting the leather/materials for the making of the uppers of the shoe.

Italian Footwear Solution will ensure the calculations of the shoe Last are those of a PERFECT FIT on every shoe being constructed. Once the Perfect Fit Volumes have been reached, the designing team will give the last a Fashionable look giving the shoe its maximum Comfort Fit in a Great Looking Shoe!